Thursday, 6 March 2008

Delhi

Ryan the Tiger at Nila Gumbad (some dead dude's tomb who built bits of Delhi a long time ago)


Try reverse parking that thing!!! Main Bazzaae at Pahar Ganj

Different view of Pahar Ganj.

A main road in Delhi.


A Mosque inside the fort of Purana Qila
Humaun's Tomb (another very long time dead person who was important in Delhi history)

India Gate as the sunsets


Inside the Lai Qila (Red Fort)

(I struggled to remember which photo's came from where and that is only a week - how am I going to remember all this after a year and that's with a journal and guide book!!)

Feel free to stop at the photo's but for those of you who I promised more detail to when I had the time please read on......

I arrived in Delhi last Saturday and got met at the airport by a driver from the hotel, the initial hotel I had booked was overbooked so I got shipped round the corner. I was initially a little dubious to this but it turned out fine and the hotel was clean and tidy and the staff were fine. I slept for the best part of the first 24 hours - I don't think it was so much jet lag (given that I had slept a fair bit on the plane as well) but more exhaustion from the last few weeks of running around.

Well this is certainly some place, it is comfortably hot at the moment here and I am being very careful with everything that I do, factor 50(no tan!!), bottled water, no meat, padlocks on my bags (both those left at the hotel and my day sack) so yes I did listen to all those warnings you all gave me. I carry my whistle and haven't wandered off anywhere too remote on my own.

It is a strange but interesting city. You have a centre called Connaught Place which is commercialised and could really be in any big city (with the compulsory McDonald's/Pizza Hut no Starbucks as yet - and no I haven't given in and eaten here yet). Here you have modern cars and business dress. Then less than 10 mins walk away you come accross Pahar Ganj where there are these little winding streets with open front shops where you can buy anything. It is a constant barage of tourist touts trying to sell overpriced trips, shopkeepers trying to persuade you that you do really want to buy a pair of shoes etc, and of course the constant stream of traffic - auto rickshaws (tuc tucs), cycle ricksshaws, cows (who are the only things that anyone gives way to), taxi's, small vans, hand pulled carts - the only thing I haven't seen is a double decker bus!!! As this area is very central, cheap and seemingly on the backpackers map I moved to a budget hotel here a couple of nights ago - it is very basic - clean enough (with a little help) and secure and at 5pounds (no pound sign on the keyboard!!) a night it is within my budget range - added bonus is the TV with HBO so I get old movies!!

Surprising thing is that the streets altough dusty and run down are actually pretty clean - less litter than at home - downside is that the footpaths are generally used as toilets forcing you to walk on the roads - trying to cross the road is an adventure in itself - last night after waiting 15 minutes for a break in 6 lanes of ntraffic (and no crossing point at least mile in each direction) I took my life in my hands and went for it - but I am here to tell the tale!! Think my driving would be ok here as everyone just moves out of the way - most stubborn wins.

Talking of stubborn I don't think the touts and beggars banked on the most stubborn scottish woman arriving in their country as I smile nicely and keep walking if they want to follow me for a mile hey who am I to stop them - they are still not getting my money (as a few have learnt). To be honest although there are beggars in the city it is not as bad as I expected (though from all the warnings I had my expectations were very low), the kids are heartbreaking but being the cold hearted b**ch that I am I still refuse to give them money. I did see people give food to the kids the other night and I offered them money to buy some more - turned out it was some religous ceremony and I was sent off to buy some food then had to have it blessed (along with myself!) and give it out personally- was all a bit weird as these grown men (who were not beggars) then started putting their hands out for some as well -think it has some religous significance but I was a little overwhelmed and tried to make my escape but they tried to get me to go back into the mosque - I didn't understand them so I just smiled and legged it........... so much for trying to help!!

The beggars are probably less of a problem than everyone else as it is acceptable to just avoid them - bit harder not to give a few rupees to the security guard/hotel staff/information people who willingly show you things you haven't asked (or want) then expect some Baksheesh (tip) which they will blatantly ask for!! The tuc tuc drivers just keep trying to get you to go to shops as they get commission if you step in the door (have given in a couple of times for the nice drivers). Westerner = unlimited money making scam!! It's a shame as you become so wary of everyone and a lot of local people are really genuine and I have actually had a few step in and assist when I have been negotiating prices (or last night when someone tried to short change me - I think not!!) and some are just interested in what I am doing here. I have to say though my fictational husband/boyfriend comes in handy from time to time when I want to get away (never had an imaginery friend as a child but might make up for it now!!)

I also seem to be a bit of a novelty when in some areas where Indian people are siteseeing from other areas in the country - don't think they are used to very pale woman with mad frizzy hair (it's even worse here) the kids stare and people keep asking to take my photo - if I run out of money I am going to start charging!!! I did meet a lovely couple today when at the Red Fort - they have been introduced for an arranged marriage and were meeting in secret to get to know one another better before. I haven't met any fellow travellers as yet (a few holiday makers when at tourist places) but those that I have seen floating about seem quite 'New Age' (hippies!)

I have now visited most of the big tourist things in Delhi (some photo's attached) - some lovely peaceful parks and grounds to old monumnets right in the city which is a good escape from the chaos of everywhere else. I am now looking forward to Anji arriving in a couple of days as I have to be honest and say I have now just about had enough of Delhi itself and yes I have had a few moments of - 'what the hell are you doing' but they pass fairly quickly!!

Once Anji arrives were off to Agra to see the Taj Mahal and some other towns for a couple of weeks then I will start my own trail down south. So till the next time.........

Jack xx

PS Hope your all well :-)

7 comments:

alex b said...

Just back from NZ and thought I would check out you blog, very impressed! Good luck for the rest of the trip, keep up the good work, Alex

Anonymous said...

Hi Jacks,

Smashing pics of India! Great journal you're keeping there, keep it going.

We are all fine here (so far) and we are all taking an interest in your site.

Had to laugh at you and the beggars situation...I can just picture it!

PS Jack is on his way to Join you after the invite!

BFN,

Ade.

Sally said...

Have been checking every few days so great to hear you are OK. Your blog is great and I can now become a virtual traveller for another few years!! Have fun. x

Anonymous said...

Hi Jackie,
Alli McIntyre here. Your pictures of Dehli are fantastic, that cow is great!!!!
Ade has now shown me how to access your site so I will be following you with interest. Good Luck Girl!!

Alli xx

Unknown said...

Hi Jackie,

Been checking out your photos and updates, sounds fab. You'll be used to all the beggars from Glasgow, and I bet the ones in India are nothing like the nasty ones here.

By the time you write your next posting I'll hopefully have my dissertation finished......

All well, missing our chats, but will keep you posted if anything exciting happens.

Look forward to seeing the pics of the Taj Mahal, supposed to be amazing.

And like Sally, I'm enjoying deing a virtual traveller from the comfort of my living room.

XXX

Anonymous said...

Looks and sounds great! :-)

Jack said...

Good to see your enjoying the blog and photo's makes it worth while taking the time to write it up - don't think there is going to be any shortage of weird and unusual things to photograph in India - and as you know there is always a funny/disaster story when I'm involved ;-)

Jo - your right the beggars here are a doddle compared to Glasgow - haven't even sworn at anyone yet - then again not sure which countries you might get your tongue cut out for doing that!!

Ades - glad to see your showing people how to access my blog - took me long enough to work it out myself!

Hope you had a great time in NZ Alex - let me know your recommendations for when I get there.

I'm away now to try and upload some more photo's to keep you all entertained.....

xxxx