Tuesday, 1 April 2008

Madhya Pradesh

Ok so I know it has been over 2 weeks since my last update but I did warn you that internet access was sometimes hard to come by here and even when you can get on line it can be too slow for uploading photo's (and that's not to mention the frequent power cuts!!!)


Anyway, this is an extra long entry to make up for it so go get a cup of coffee/beer/glass of wine (yes I know you all too well) and enjoy........



I mentioned Holi, The Festival of Colour on my last update - so here is a cow that was coloured and I spotted dogs/goats and even a chicken that had been coloured!!



Oh and I got coloured by some local kids.


Ghekkos are my regular roommates - but that's good as they eat the mosquito's.



The view over Orchha - one of my favourite places so far - means the "Hidden Village" and is a serious of Temples and a Palace surrounded by forrest.

The Palace at Orccha - I got lost in the serious of interconnecting corridors (no signs!).

A different view over Orccha.


The Western Temples of Khajuragho - these lay hidden in deep forrest for centuries until the British Army found them in 1800's. But look a little closer not all is as you may expect......

These Temples have a number of erotic sculpures around them from the Karma Sutra - there are different theories as to why these are on the Temples - personally I just think the architect was kinky!!


And another one - should point out that although there are a lot of erotic sculptures they are in fact only a small % of the overall - but thought you would appreciate more than an elephant!

A dance show I went along to with costumes and dancing from the different states of India.

Pigs in the middle of a street in Umaria - much hairier that our native pigs.

Old Khajuraho Village.










Me, David and Emma - who are from Slovania and were staying in the same hotel.










Kids at Tala Village who were spending the morning collecting fruit (that their dads will make into alcohol then sell) when they should have been at school.

A party to celebrate the end of Holi that I gatecrashed.

The band at the party.

Bandhavgarh National Park.

A monkey family - sorry no naughty business this time ;-)
A spotted deer.
A big butterfly.
Sunrise on Safari -- great way to start my birthday.

Me on safari.

The signs that the Tigers were on the move were good when we spotted paw prints.....

The Vultures skulking about were also a sign of Tiger activity......


Right enough not far away the remains of the Tiger kill (after the Vultures had finished with it!) so I was sure we were not far away...then I heard a big Tiger growl and .........

I got so excited then realised that we had just found Ryan the Tiger who had gone to look for his cousin on his own!!!!

This Tiger was not wanting to be found so easy so we enlisted the help of the Elephants and went a bit deeper into the forrest..

After all that searching we found this 8 year old female Tiger having a nap in the long grass - she didn't even bat an eyelid at the silly tourists on elephant back taking her photo - well she'd had a hard night hunting......


The mad cow running for the train - and no I don't mean me!!!

Ryan the Tiger enjoying the view from Pachmarhi Hill.


A street party in Pachmarhi - there was even a DJ.

Pachmari Village.
Men at work.

The view over the newer area of Pachmarhi town from my balcony.

Trekking 23km through the forrest to Chauragarh Temple.


Look closely at top middle of photo there is a thin green snake (couldn't see in sun to get better photo) - according to my trekking guide this poisonous and as it refused to move and he made us change our path to keep out it's way I tend to believe him!!

Yes I did feel as hot and sweaty as I look!

Chauragarh Temple - at the top of the mountain!!

These orange Tridents are carried to the top by pilgrims during the holy festival of Shivratri every year - but the pilgrims now take the easy road up and don't do the forrest trekk (think they may have been told something I hadn't before I started!!)

And just to prove I did make it to the top.

My trekking guide Rajkumar and his family.

Bhopal - a small city by Indian standards (only 1 million residents) but still mixture of poverty and industry next to each other. This city is famous for a Gas leak at a US factory in 1984 where 1600 died and thousands more suffered medical problems - with little compensation!!

A street parade I happened on by chance this morning - no idea what it was all about but it was loud and chaotic - expecially when I caused a traffic jam when I caused a traffic jam when everyone stopped in front of me so I could photograph/video them - been the only tourist (and camera) in the area!!

More of the parade.

I have noo idea what the significance of this guy is but liked the photo.....

Well as you can see since my last update I have survived my travels on my own and Anji is safely back at work in the UK. There has been no more Delhi Belly (touch wood!!). I have been to a number of towns and villages, as you can see from the photo's. It is certainly never dull here and I am enjoying getting out the bigger cities as the people are so friendly and you don't get anywhere near as much hassle from beggars or touts. Though I did lose my temper with one rickshaw wallah (that's the official title for those who try to get you into the tuc tucs) as he followed me from the minute I stepped off the train and wouldn't take no for an answer and kept telling me there was no bus/tempo even though my guide book said different and what hotel I should be going to. Well after he had interrupted the fourth person I tried to ask for information he got told where to go - I did manage to refrain from swearing (well out loud anyway!) and found a tempo. Tempo's are just a slightly bigger rickshaw where they cram in about 14 people and bags!! But at 20Rupees (26p) for 10 mile trip - worth it for the experience (but not my regular mode of transport).
Had a few other firsts over the last few weeks, my first ride on a motorcycle - was by default I have to say as the hotel said they would drop me off at the dance show I was going to and I just assumed it would be by car!! But it was in a town with very little traffic and I quite enjoyed it. I also had my first ever experience at meditation - the hotel where I was staying in Khajuraho was a spititual guru and took me to an old ruined temple at sunset for meditation. Was quite relaxing though I didn't manage the whole blanking your mind thing (hard to believe I know!!) but did enjoying just chilling out under the stars...... So have been doing as I intended and trying out new things and keeping an open mind but not yet converted.

I hired a bike in Khajuraho as well for the day as it was the best way to see the Temples that are scattered around the town. After my first stop I got back to my bike and found I couldn't get the lock open - a very helpful boy came to my assistance and spent 10 mins oiling the lock and trying different keys. I was just about to jump in a rickshaw and get the hotel to collect their own bike when a guy came over and asked what we were doing to his bike!! Ok they all look exactly a like and mines had been the third bike when I left - how was I to know someone else with same bike would come up and park next to me!! Felt like a goose so tipped the boy 50 rupees (60p) as smallest note I had - not bad as it only cost me 30 rupees to hire the bike for the day!!

I decided that I was going to trekk in Pachamari, which is a hill station with lots of army and police training barracks and when I arranged for a local guide to take me to Chauragarh mountain Temple I thought he would follow the route the guide book says you can do yourself - I had decided not to cycle the first 8km as I am hopeless uphill on a bike so thought we would just walk the same route. No we went through the forrest and up the side of the mountain!!! Was excellent and I am glad I did it but did I struggle for the last couple of km's uphill only to get to what I thought was the top to find 350 stairs (ahhhh!!!). But I refrained from jumping a jeep back down and walked even though we did come down on the main road most of the way - which was much easier. Then got back to my hotel and remembered I was on the 5th floor - so once I hit my hotel room I couldn't even face going back out for my dinner and slept for 12 hours!!! Will wait till I head north to cooler climates before trying another trekk like that I think....

Some things that I have found on my travels around India so far:
  1. Spitting - everywhere you go guys just do big dirty grogging spits - one of my most hated habits at the best of times :-(
  2. Bucket Baths - most hotels you stay in have a bucket in the bathroom - even if they have showers. As many have low water pressure or no warm water you use the bucket to fill up and through it over your head - much more effective than it sounds (certainly wakes you up!!) and also comes in handy for washing your clothes.

  3. Singing - not only do you hear the constant sounds of chanting from mosques & temples but everyone walks along and sings away to themselves. Though I did get some funny looks when I tried singing along to my MP3 they didn't seem to appreciate my version of Bryan Adams - Summer of 69 ........then again I am tone deaf (and Alice has never forgiven me for standing next to her in the school choir :-)
  4. Bus Journeys - there is a driver, ticket conductor and at least one other guy who is mechanic/goffer. People hop on and off moving buses and as many people as possible are squeezed in for the ride.
  5. Prayer - people openly pray and bless themselves and there is generally a very good tolerance between the different religous groups. For example on the bus journey the other day the driver stopped so the conductor could jump off and make an offering of coconut at a temple at the side of the road to bring good luck.
  6. Genorosity - everywhere you go people will offer you food and water, even though they have hardly enough for themselves. It is difficult to politely refuse but there are warnings of food being drugged (sure that is not the case 99.9% of the time) but mainly it is for hygiene reasons (had enough of the runs!!).

  7. Questions - it is perfectly acceptable for a stranger to ask you about your relationship, family, education, religion, salary even your phone number and email. I was asked by a 10 year old today if I was christian (said yes as I couldn't get into the whole undecided thing with someone who is 10!!). Generally I tell people I am married as most find it quite strange that someone my age would be single (not that some at home wouldn't agree) and it gets you less hassle from guys (my husband is always on business in the next town I am going to!).
  8. Photo's - people love getting their photo's taken and will just stop you in the street and ask you to take their photo's.

So after your nagging I've made effort to include some photo's with me in them - just to prove to Audrey I'm not holed up in a bed sit in Saltcoats downloading photo's on line!! Also, thanks to various people for warnings about trouble in Tibet - it wasn't looking good for visit anyway as difficult to get a Visa so is now off the agenda. Going to start working my way down to South of India from here and hopefully be able to get there before the temperatures get too hot for me.

Better go and get organised as have to catch a train in a couple of hours (8 hour journey - if there are no delays - yesterdays 45 min journey turned into 3 hours!).

Hope you enjoyed the update (I did warn you it was going to be a long one)- will hopefully not be so long till the next one.

Jack xx

PS Sometimes difficult for me to tell who has left comments on my posts as if you haven't signed up it comes up annonymous so you need to add your name to the bottom (also know a few people with same name - so if I mix you up with someone please don't get offended ;-)

Saturday, 22 March 2008

Jodphur and the Elephant Festival


Mandor Guest House


The Temples in Mandor Gardens, Jodphur


A Hanuman Monkey and it's baby, Mandor Gardens


A view over Jodphur - The Blue City - seemingly the blue colour on the buildings keeps them cool and keeps away the Mosquitos.

The water pump at Bishnoi Village

Chilling out at Bishnoi Village

Milking the goats at Bishnoi Village

Some children at their home at Bishnoi Village


The children at Bishnoi village

A Blue Bull - very rare breed that is a mixture of cattle and horse - lovely colour though not sure if you will see it from this!


The cycle rickshaw driver trying to get more money from Anji - or was it her phone number???

The Elephant Festival

A street vender selling the colour powder that is added to the water and thrown at people as part of Holi

Shveta at a burning on the eve of Holi - relates back to an old legend of a wicked king who tried to have his son burnt as he would not worship him, but the son survived and the kings evil sister died instead - so now as part of the celebrations things of importance are burnt to bring good luck to them.


Kriti, Shveta, Kul and Kshity - the family who looked after us very well in Jaipur



Anji got bit on her last day and she is going home looking like the elephant man!!

Spotted this bird at the train station today what amazing colours - the challenge is can someone at home find out what it is???

After the last update Anji and I had our first overnight train journey down to Jodphur (the Blue City). The journey was rather uneventful and I slept most of the way despite the loud snores from my fellow passengers (and no I am not referring to Anji!!). The Mandor Guest House where we stayed in Jodphur was fantastic it was set up like a small village with mud style huts around a lovely peaceful garden (we did of course have electricity and showers!). This was run by a lovely family as well who do a lot of work with the rural villages and travellers staying with them sometimes undertake voluntary work. We were only there for two days so didn't have time for that but will keep it in mind for the future.

We did however go on a half day safari out to the Bishnoi Villages. Bishnoi means 29 and relates to the 29 laws that were put in place in these communities hundreds of years ago. These basically enforce that all life is precious and equal to human life so the local villagers do not kill any animal (including insects which they pick of the veg etc) and they have protected lands. The ccommunity was very welcoming and we got to chat to a lot of the children who were then late for school as they were fascinated by my compass and combination padlock. We spent quite some time with an older gent who was making blankets on his loom - they don't sell anything but trade locally to survive. They are the first recorded tree huggers - with 363 0f them being killed in the 17th century when they were trying to stop some trees being felled!!

We spent hours at the massive Meherangarh Fort which was in excellent condition and had lots of interesting stories around it - won't bore you with them but if you ever come to India this is well worth a visit! Here we had our palms read - as cynical as I am I have to say the guy quite impressed me with the description of my personality traits - yes he could have just been lucky but the first thing out his mouth was 'independent and don't like asking for help' (ring any bells!) and he desccribed my fiery temper and a few other things that were quite apt....he did get a few things wrong like the fact Anji has no kids but it was quite a laugh......have kept a note of the predictions and will see if they come true (though these were much less specific than the personality traits!) but you can all now stop worrying as he said I'm going to live into my 80's so think that means I will survive this trip!! Oh and there was no mention of a rich middle eastern prince like the last time (so definetely much more believable - though that wouldn't have been hard!!)
Only mishaps we had in Jodphur were with the Hanuman monkeys in Mandor Gardens - they were all over the place and I wanted to walk accross a little footbridge to the temples and thought the monkey sitting on it would just move - oh no it bared it's teeth and I had to wait nearly 10 mins until a cow decided it wanted to cross befor the got out of the way!! Wasn't as bad as Anji though as she had one jump on her and pull at her bag......it's not like they are hungry they are very well fed as the locals worship them

We then headed back to Jaipur for the Elephant Festival - it started really well with a parade of painted and jewelled elephants, horses, camels etc and there were loads of dancers in traditional costume. Unfortunately, it was not very well organised and most of the spectators wandered onto the stadium pitch and you couldn't see anything - was very tempted to go down and show the security/police how to control a crowd but I refrained and we just gave up and went home.

The festival was a prelude to the Holi celebrations which are on here this weekend which is a celebration of colour. Most places are closed and everyone wanders around throwing coloured water over each other - as we spend most of the day on the train and managed to avoid getting covered in anything (well so far there is another couple of days still to go!!).

Anji is now sitting at the airport waiting on her flight home and I am back in Delhi for the night before my first solo train journey tomorrow as I start to make my way accross to one of the big National Parks (hopefully to see the Tigers) though have a few stops planned en route. Well to be honest other than my train ticket tomorrow I have no confirmed plans just a rough idea of where I want to stop off. May be less reliable internet access once I'm out the city so thought I better give you another update before then.

Ok I'm away to see if I can find anywhere open to get some food (that is safe to eat) and hit my bed as my train is at 0615 - not so sure about snoozing on this one when on my own as they don't announce the stops on the trains so you really have to check all the time - today we got off at the wrong one but thankfully it was just Old Delhi rather than New Delhi - cost me all of 6p to get the Metro over to the other side of town.......

Who knows where I will be the next time you hear from me.......
Jack :-)

Saturday, 15 March 2008

Jaipur and Agra

Anji being chased by a cow as she tries to take it's photo!!!
Washing in the sacred pool at Glata Monkey Palace

A Double Decker!!
Ryan the Tiger enjoying the view over Jaipur from Nahagarth Fort


The City Palace, residence of the Jaipur Royal Family

Flower sellers of Jaipur
A public toilet
A school party at the Amber Palace
Shopping for Sari's

A street kid in Jaipur - the not so nice side of India's Cities.....

Local Transport

Hello again,

We are still in Jaipur, which is also known as the Pink City as all the old buildings are built with a local pink stone although they are pretty run down now. This is seemingly the place to buy luxury gemstones unfortunately that is not within my travel budget.

We have done a lot of the local sites, Forts, Palaces etc and meeting some lovely people and of course a few stories to share with you. After taking some photo's of the local street kids the other day I thought I would buy them some sweets as I don't like to give them money - despite asking three times if what I was buying was sweets the local vender decided to sell me tobacco, luckily a passing local lady intervened and explained what I was about to do!! Don't think the vender dared to argue when I demanded he swap what I bought for some biscuits!!

Then when we were walking through the park and watching some young lads play cricket some of them came over and were speaking to us about where we were from, all very friendly till one decided to touch my bum - don't think he will do that again though as I threatened to hit him with his mates cricket bat so they decided they should return to their game and we left the park quick smart!!

The Delhi belly comes and goes which makes life quite interesting especially when trying to communicate with the locals to find a toilet in a hurry - yesterday Anji had to squat down and demonstrate for our driver

Last night our hosts invited us to join them at a friends who were hosting a meal at a temple to celebrate a religous service. We saw a little of the ceremony which was really interesting with lots of colour, bells and praying to the two different gods of the temple - The Monkey God and the Elephant God (I won't even try and spell their correct names!). This was followed by a traditional meal from the Rajastan area which was delicious and served on leaf plates.

Today we are having a lazy afternoon in the sun at our Guest House before heading out to a local village to see some more local customs and then we catch our first overnight train, which I am sure will be another adventure!!

Below some funny video clips which I hope work and make you giggle as I am hearing how cold and miserable the weather is at home just now ;-)

Jack xx


Galta Monkey Palace



Some more monkeys at the Galta Monkey Palace


Street Life in Jaipur




Elephants in Jaipur


The School Bus

Wednesday, 12 March 2008

Moving on from Delhi

Me getting on a train

An itchy goat at the gates of Fatehpur Sikri - a ghost town which town which took 13 years to build in the 15th century to only be occupied for 4 years because of problems with the water supply.

A normal mode of transport on a busy India road

Anji holding up the Taj

The Taj Mahal first thing in the morning

Me at the Taj



Islamic inscriptions around the entrance


The coloured stones are sunk into the marble




Getting a shave by a barber in an Old Delhi Street
The snake charmer - who was quite insistent that he was going to show us his skills then get paid!!


The Jantar Mantra - a strange collection of buildings used with the shadow of the sun to tell time, make astrological and lunar charts (don't ask me anything more complicated as I didn't understand!!)


Meeting local people


The tractor to work




Anji arrived on Saturday and we spent another day in Delhi so she could do the whistle stop tour. We managed to get to Old Delhi and back using the Metro which is amazingly clean and at a cost of about 15p per ticket (and the bonus of no haggling) is great. Only problem is the limited area it covers at the moment as they are still building it so it is not always an option.

We have now managed two India Rail train journeys, the first went very smoothly (other than my need to keep visiting the toilet with a mild touch of Delhi belly!!). The second which was this morning was rather more interesting. On getting on our very early train everyone was still asleep (the seat benches turn into bunk beds at night) and the train was in darkness so we couldn't see the seat numbers, then when we did find our seats there were people sleeping in the bottom bunk where we should sit. I ended up climbing up onto the top with my big rucksack. Of course we were not quiet, laughing and falling about, surprisingly enough no one told us to shut up (much more tolerant than the British). I went for a nap (curled up next to my rucksack) and when I woke Anji had made friends with the nice family that we had so rudely disturbed.

We spent a day and a half in Agra with a whistle stop tour of the main tourist sites. The Taj Mahal as expected was amazing, unfortunately it was quite misty so we never saw either the sunset or sunrise but we did get there very early to beat the crowds and it was worth it. I think we were both surprised at how much colour and inscriptions are actually on the walls of the TM, the detail is amazing (have put just a couple of the hundreds of photos I took of it on for you!!).

I've had a touch of Delhi Belly for about 4 days, all things considered it isn't too bad as I haven't been feeling unwell and I have still been out. I'm just avoiding food during the day and drinking lots of water when we are out and about and in the evenings having a sensible meal as I then have quick access to a usable toilet!! Think I have just about flushed it out of my system now, though Anji is now suffering a little.We have just arrived at our second Homestay, these are local government approved Guest Houses. They are excellent, the families are very friendly and helpful the houses are spotless and have good facilities, better than any B&B you would stay in at home.

There is a constant noise in India , with the trains, rickshaws, animals, singing, chanting and praying but I quite like it - very atmospheric. I'm sure there are loads of smells as well but as my nose doesn't work then I avoid those (good and bad!!). On the streets you see everything, barbers, shavers, ear cleaners (three times I have been offered this service but declined!!), henna painting, snake charmers, monkeys, chipmunks, parrots, camels, donkeys and so far one elephant! Nothing would surprise me but hopefully some of the photos capture this so you can get a little taste.

Glad your all enjoying the blog and photos, I love getting the comments it's good to know that your all following my trip (or checking in to make sure I'm ok) - if I'm missing anything out you would like to know about then just ask and I'll fill you in. I can also send things home easy enough (thinking of ditching half my rucksack - though it is a a lot lighter now I've used half my Diarolyte!!) so if you want anything sent home let me know - I only charge 10% commission :-)



Till the next time.....




Jack xxx

doo

ook ok

Thursday, 6 March 2008

Delhi

Ryan the Tiger at Nila Gumbad (some dead dude's tomb who built bits of Delhi a long time ago)


Try reverse parking that thing!!! Main Bazzaae at Pahar Ganj

Different view of Pahar Ganj.

A main road in Delhi.


A Mosque inside the fort of Purana Qila
Humaun's Tomb (another very long time dead person who was important in Delhi history)

India Gate as the sunsets


Inside the Lai Qila (Red Fort)

(I struggled to remember which photo's came from where and that is only a week - how am I going to remember all this after a year and that's with a journal and guide book!!)

Feel free to stop at the photo's but for those of you who I promised more detail to when I had the time please read on......

I arrived in Delhi last Saturday and got met at the airport by a driver from the hotel, the initial hotel I had booked was overbooked so I got shipped round the corner. I was initially a little dubious to this but it turned out fine and the hotel was clean and tidy and the staff were fine. I slept for the best part of the first 24 hours - I don't think it was so much jet lag (given that I had slept a fair bit on the plane as well) but more exhaustion from the last few weeks of running around.

Well this is certainly some place, it is comfortably hot at the moment here and I am being very careful with everything that I do, factor 50(no tan!!), bottled water, no meat, padlocks on my bags (both those left at the hotel and my day sack) so yes I did listen to all those warnings you all gave me. I carry my whistle and haven't wandered off anywhere too remote on my own.

It is a strange but interesting city. You have a centre called Connaught Place which is commercialised and could really be in any big city (with the compulsory McDonald's/Pizza Hut no Starbucks as yet - and no I haven't given in and eaten here yet). Here you have modern cars and business dress. Then less than 10 mins walk away you come accross Pahar Ganj where there are these little winding streets with open front shops where you can buy anything. It is a constant barage of tourist touts trying to sell overpriced trips, shopkeepers trying to persuade you that you do really want to buy a pair of shoes etc, and of course the constant stream of traffic - auto rickshaws (tuc tucs), cycle ricksshaws, cows (who are the only things that anyone gives way to), taxi's, small vans, hand pulled carts - the only thing I haven't seen is a double decker bus!!! As this area is very central, cheap and seemingly on the backpackers map I moved to a budget hotel here a couple of nights ago - it is very basic - clean enough (with a little help) and secure and at 5pounds (no pound sign on the keyboard!!) a night it is within my budget range - added bonus is the TV with HBO so I get old movies!!

Surprising thing is that the streets altough dusty and run down are actually pretty clean - less litter than at home - downside is that the footpaths are generally used as toilets forcing you to walk on the roads - trying to cross the road is an adventure in itself - last night after waiting 15 minutes for a break in 6 lanes of ntraffic (and no crossing point at least mile in each direction) I took my life in my hands and went for it - but I am here to tell the tale!! Think my driving would be ok here as everyone just moves out of the way - most stubborn wins.

Talking of stubborn I don't think the touts and beggars banked on the most stubborn scottish woman arriving in their country as I smile nicely and keep walking if they want to follow me for a mile hey who am I to stop them - they are still not getting my money (as a few have learnt). To be honest although there are beggars in the city it is not as bad as I expected (though from all the warnings I had my expectations were very low), the kids are heartbreaking but being the cold hearted b**ch that I am I still refuse to give them money. I did see people give food to the kids the other night and I offered them money to buy some more - turned out it was some religous ceremony and I was sent off to buy some food then had to have it blessed (along with myself!) and give it out personally- was all a bit weird as these grown men (who were not beggars) then started putting their hands out for some as well -think it has some religous significance but I was a little overwhelmed and tried to make my escape but they tried to get me to go back into the mosque - I didn't understand them so I just smiled and legged it........... so much for trying to help!!

The beggars are probably less of a problem than everyone else as it is acceptable to just avoid them - bit harder not to give a few rupees to the security guard/hotel staff/information people who willingly show you things you haven't asked (or want) then expect some Baksheesh (tip) which they will blatantly ask for!! The tuc tuc drivers just keep trying to get you to go to shops as they get commission if you step in the door (have given in a couple of times for the nice drivers). Westerner = unlimited money making scam!! It's a shame as you become so wary of everyone and a lot of local people are really genuine and I have actually had a few step in and assist when I have been negotiating prices (or last night when someone tried to short change me - I think not!!) and some are just interested in what I am doing here. I have to say though my fictational husband/boyfriend comes in handy from time to time when I want to get away (never had an imaginery friend as a child but might make up for it now!!)

I also seem to be a bit of a novelty when in some areas where Indian people are siteseeing from other areas in the country - don't think they are used to very pale woman with mad frizzy hair (it's even worse here) the kids stare and people keep asking to take my photo - if I run out of money I am going to start charging!!! I did meet a lovely couple today when at the Red Fort - they have been introduced for an arranged marriage and were meeting in secret to get to know one another better before. I haven't met any fellow travellers as yet (a few holiday makers when at tourist places) but those that I have seen floating about seem quite 'New Age' (hippies!)

I have now visited most of the big tourist things in Delhi (some photo's attached) - some lovely peaceful parks and grounds to old monumnets right in the city which is a good escape from the chaos of everywhere else. I am now looking forward to Anji arriving in a couple of days as I have to be honest and say I have now just about had enough of Delhi itself and yes I have had a few moments of - 'what the hell are you doing' but they pass fairly quickly!!

Once Anji arrives were off to Agra to see the Taj Mahal and some other towns for a couple of weeks then I will start my own trail down south. So till the next time.........

Jack xx

PS Hope your all well :-)